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Fiji. Visiting Suva

May 21, 2014 by Tania 12 Comments

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  They don’t call Fiji the land of smiles for no reason. This laid back land is the second biggest travel destination for Australians after Bali.

A Fijian policeman in uniform outside parliament

There are two main islands and up to 900 smaller ones and a world of choice as far as styles of accommodation and holiday.

life in Fiji

 Suva, the business of Fiji

Suva, on the southeastern coast of Fiji’s main Island, Vetu Levi is a good hop-off point for traveling to resorts and other Islands. It’s where you will find lots of international businesses and expats living in the suburbs. Every so often a cruise ship will pull up and the souvenir shops and the main department store will be flooded. It’s a good opportunity for Fijians to make a bit of money with their traditional handcrafts and Suva has quite a few shops selling these crafts and the “Bulla” shirt,  a colourful shirt in a  myriad of patterns that are as much a part of Fiji as those famous smiles.

Fijians are no entrepreneurs, they will sooner sit and have a chat than sell you something, so there is no fear of being hounded to buy.  The best place for souvenirs is in behind the main central markets and just near the bus terminal at a large undercover market full of handicrafts. Here the sellers are respectful and never approach us to buy. There are all kinds of crafts from jewelry to traditional handicrafts. One friendly lady notices me looking at some colourful textured mats and tells me about them with pride without any expectation I will buy.  

Buying a Kuta mat

This is where I discovered what a Kuta mat is. They come in all kinds of sizes and designs and are important both as income for the weavers and as a ceremonial mat given as a traditional gift for weddings and funerals. The “kuta” reeds to make these mats are seasonal and only grow in low lying areas that can often be effected by rising sea water in bad weather. Expect to pay anywhere between $100- $ 400 for a mat.

wedding mat
The Kuta mat

The Wheelbarrow

In Suva a wheelbarrow is a prized possession. There are many uses for a good wheelbarrow, it’s popular as a shopping trolley or to carry a few kids aound. It’s vital for stall holders to move stock from place to place and quite clearly any good Fijian will find a way to use it for laying back and chilling. There were blokes with wide smiles waiting outside shops, barrows loaded with bread, cans of coconut milk, taro as well as the kids waiting for the good wife to come out of the shops.

Wheelbarrows in Suva Fiji
Buses of Fiji

I always wanted to go to Fiji, to see what the Fiji outside the resorts is like. It’s not difficult to travel around Fiji but most people don’t consider this option. i urge you to give it a try

fiji
Fiji. Visiting Suva and surrounds

Owning a car in Fiji is not common. They are expensive and most can’t afford one. People travel by public transport, and that usually means local buses or taxis, both are quite cheap. The bus trip from Suva to Nadi (a gateway town, on the other side of the main island) is 4 hours and costs less than $15 FJ . Taxis can be shared to cut costs. You can travel the island on public transport

Village living

The best way to do it though is to rent a car or a private taxis. I traveled the circumference of the main island by private car. There are small beachside places to stay all around the island. You can buy fish or vegetables from sellers along the highway and drive through small remote villages. Roads can be basic and you will need to check with locals after heavy rain. Hire cars can be found on Expedia or when you book your airline ticket.

Not many cars also means very few learner drivers and the rules here make sure you do not miss one on the road. I laughed when I saw this picture. Is that the biggest L plate you have ever seen?

learner driver

Usually food is the emphasis of a trip for me, but there isn’t such an emphasis on food in Fiji, unless you head to a big resort. What Fiji has are mountains and blue skies and the most amazing fluffy clouds, great beaches and smiling village faces. Drive down a country road and into a village and you will be inundated with invitations for tea.  Perhaps an opportunity to feel the real Fiji.

Kava is one of Fijis most important crops

Kava man

If you go to any market at all while in Fiji you will probably see Kava for sale everywhere.

Kava is not only an important cash crop in Fiji but a culturally significant way for Fijians to relax.  The roots of the plant are used to produce a drink with sedative and anesthetic properties, giving a feeling of relaxation and well being. It is widely accepted in the community in everyday life, even as part of religious and political occasions.  Its kind of an insurance policy that you will meet a smiling welcoming Fijian. The whole top floor of a the market in Suva is devoted to Kava ( or Grog)

Lady grog master
Lady grog master. When buying, the powder is least pungent while the different parts of the roots are also different grades, from the chips to the long wiry root tips. However it is bought it will be mixed with water straight away if powder or ground down in a Kava bowl then mixed with water if it is a chip or whole root. Yes, you drink it. It looks and smells like muddy water.
DSC01396
DSC01448

Suva is a small city with a population of around 330,000. It’s the capital and government centre of Fiji. Spend the day here

Things to do in Suva

  • Go and see the Fijian Guards at Government house on the waterfront
  • Island hop. There are a large number of choices from only about an hour away from Suva (next post). Travel here from your resort and spend the day.
  •  Have a Bulla shirt or dress made for you personally by a tailor
  • Go to Eden Restaurant and cafe
  • Buy an authentic Fijian handicraft
  • Go to the central food market
  • Walk along the waterfront at dusk
  • Go to the Pure Fiji day spa

Have something Tailored for you in 24-48 hours. There are lots of Tailors. The tailor we visited was down a funny back alley and up a set of stairs on the second level where a friend had a Bulla shirt made.

visiting the the tailors
the tailor

Food options in Suva

Restaurants can be a little disappointing but there are two in Suva that I tried and can recommend

 Daikoku Restaurant is an unusual but popular Japanese Teppanyaki restaurant on Victoria Parade, Suva. There are all the usual Japanese specialties you’d expect including great Sushi but the real treat is watching a towering Fijian Teppanyaki chef bang away on the Teppanyaki plate.

chef

Eden  Bistro and Bar has become a favourite with both locals and tourists. Sangeeta, born in Fiji and educated in New Zealand really knows how to make customers feel welcome and special. She loves her restaurant and is like a mother hen with the staff. She provides a learning nurturing environment taking young hopefuls and mentoring them by providing opportunities. Help with books, uniforms and accommodation encouraging them through her kitchen like a real life Fijian Jamie Oliver.

There are few restaurants in Suva or even Fiji with local staff that offer this kind of contemporary food. The menu showcases a range of eclectic dishes from all over the globe

eden restaurant

Eden is open three meals a day and has a bakery on site. The food is diverse from sashimi  & pot stickers, pizzas and wraps but it’s at night that the food really gets interesting.

food at eden

Local Prawns with herb rice and Sangeeta’s famous chilli paste $55Fiji . Crab ravioli curry with crab meat $50 Fiji.

snapper fillet

Paka Paka ( local fish) with minted avocado, lemon risotto $28 Fiji.

Eden is definitely a place to visit. Bureta St, Suva   +679 338 624

Pure Fiji Spa

I had never heard of Pure Fiji before I visited Suva, but I am now a convert. This is how they describe their products “Land and Sea providing all that is needed for good health with pure and natural body care. This is the Pacific way – the way body care should be – naturally.” The spa offers a full range of treatments and products and in Fijian dollars thats a bargain. There is also a factory shop!

Pure Fiji

The products are addictive- and very cheap in Fiji!. This tray is everything they put on my face to improve it….. I loved this spa.                                                     52 Karsanji St, Vatuwaqa, Suva  Ph: (+679) 337 3431

spa

Next post on Fiji, Island hop from Suva or take in a resort just an hour away from downtown.

suva
bag of eggplants
www.mykitchenstories.com.au

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Filed Under: reviews, Travel Tagged With: Eden bar and bistro, Eden Bar and Restaurant, Fiji, Fijian handicrafts, Kuta Mats, Pure Fiji, Suva, travel, Travel fiji

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Amanda (@lambsearshoney)

    May 25, 2014 at 10:09 am

    I’ve yet to get to Fiji, but would just love to try their seafood – and perhaps the spa, too!

    Reply
  2. Karen (Back Road Journal)

    May 25, 2014 at 8:10 am

    How nice to see places in the world I know I won’t get a chance to visit.

    Reply
  3. Diane

    May 23, 2014 at 5:37 pm

    Feels like yesterday!

    Reply
  4. Nancy@SpicieFoodie

    May 23, 2014 at 5:40 am

    Hi Tania!

    I want to go there and sleep in a wheel barrel too.:) Beautiful photographs Tania!

    Reply
  5. Helen | Grab Your Fork

    May 22, 2014 at 11:21 pm

    Would love to try all the island foods in Suva and Fiji one day. The seafood looks amazing.

    Reply
  6. InTolerant Chef

    May 22, 2014 at 9:20 pm

    I’d love a trip to Fiji, it looks so beautiful and so relaxed. Great photo of the wheelbarrows, very comfy indeed! Xox

    Reply
  7. Kari @ bite-sized thoughts

    May 22, 2014 at 7:32 pm

    That top photo looks like, well, perfection. Amazing 🙂

    Reply
  8. Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella

    May 22, 2014 at 5:22 pm

    We honeymooned in Fiji although we never quite made it to Suva. They made it sound quite scary and we were on an island so we never really made it off. The food looks great!

    Reply
  9. Hotly Spiced

    May 22, 2014 at 2:57 pm

    I love Fiji and you do make me want to go back there in a big hurry. I love the climate and the people and how it is such a relaxed environment. It’s great that you didn’t just hang around at a resort as that’s not how to see the real Fiji. The one disappointment is the food and it’s even bad in the resorts. They don’t seem to have any idea even when it comes to menus – I’ve seen so many restaurants offering hot soup for dinner when it’s about 40C. What about a salad??? Anyway, despite the food, it’s a very special part of the world. (I’ve heard there’s an excellent Indian restaurant at Port Denaurau. We didn’t get there but others I know say it’s fabulous) xx

    Reply
    • My Kitchen Stories

      May 22, 2014 at 4:40 pm

      Yes a salad would be a great idea. I did think that a couple of times!

      Reply
  10. Victoria of Flavors of the Sun

    May 22, 2014 at 10:11 am

    I just returned from my own travels happy to catch up with yours! These are fantastic photos that will make all your readers ready to pack their bags. Nice writing as well, as always.

    Reply
  11. Maureen | Orgasmic Chef

    May 22, 2014 at 9:44 am

    I want to go! I like the guard. and the handcrafts. and the shirt. and especially the smiles.

    Reply

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Tania Cusack Hi, I'm Tania and this is My Kitchen Stories. I share all kinds of recipes here. Most recipes are quick and easy, just perfect for families. BUT, you could also find vegan, cakes and desserts too. Come and have a look around Read More
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