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Hot baths and a 2kg Beefsteak, I love you Italy

August 3, 2013 by Tania 2 Comments

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Ampeleia with Roccatederighi in the distance
Ampeleia with Roccatederighi in the distance

The final leg of the journey includes hot baths and a 2kg beefsteak, I love you Italy  …really

There are so many roundabouts ( rotundas) and cross roads and freeways in Italy it is a constant surprise each time you happen upon another priceless scene. We have arrived at Amepelia winery via this network of roads , and I am stunned to see the property stretch out to the sea on one horizon and on the other the medieval town of Roccatederighi . It is a breathtaking place in the hills of Tuscany near Maremma.

Ampeleia to the sea
Ampeleia to the sea

This rather new venture ( 2002) between hot winemaker Elisabetta Foradori,  and two partners is a vision and an unfolding story. There are 7 different grape varieties grown on 40ha over 3 different micro-climates the altitudes varying from 600mtr  to 200 mtr sloping down towards the sea. They make  3 blends and sell a total of only 100,00 bottles  each year. But oh these wines…..

Ameleia microclimate area maps
Ameleia microclimate 3 area map

I am currently crushing on one called “Unlitro”.  For a start, I am sure you can deduce that the 1 litre (2 pints) size of the bottle figures in the attraction I feel for it. A blend of  fruit from the younger vines near the coast, it’s 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, matured for 6 months in cement and bottled . That little extra just makes me happy

This is wheat growing between the vines to control water and soil temperature
This is wheat growing between the vines to control water and soil temperature
Ampeleia to Roccatederighi
Ampeleia looking to the ancient village of Roccatederighi
Ampeleia cellar
Ampeleia cellar
Ampeleia entrance
Ampeleia entrance

The road winds on through the countryside and I have plenty of time to day dream while an unintelligible  discussion evolves around me. There are rolling hills and ancient buildings. We pass through towns with churches that devour the roads and men sitting on roadside seats smoking. I don’t see any animals grazing and wonder about that too. We arrive in Saturnia an hour out of Siena, an old Roman spa town with natural mineral springs. You can bath in the hot mineral waters for free, or choose an upmarket way to pamper yourself at one of the resorts.

Saternia Baths
Saturnia Baths free for all

Us? We are doing bed and breakfast. I can report that bed and breakfast in Italy is not dissimilar to anywhere else . Lots of lace, nick naks and tiny cramped conditions. There is a choice of at least 4 cakes for breakfast though, and this makes our driver  (The Entrepreneur) very happy.

The old town Saternia
The old town Saturnia
 Restaurant in the piazza Saternia
Restaurant in the piazza Saturnia

Later in the afternoon we are in the Piazza in the old town in Saturnia.  It is my favourite time of the early evening  ‘Aperitivo’ . We duck into a cute little bar and fuel up on Negronis and I watch with some interest as the boys polish off plate after plate of bar snacks with their drinks. I have a small taste of a delicious local green olive pate and an artichoke pate but I am saving up for dinner. The restaurant is a rather touristy one but as we enter we see what we have come here at il Due Cippi.

The beef cabinet with the beefsteaks
The beef cabinet with the beefsteaks

It’s full of tanned people dressed in Armani but this of coarse has no bearing on my excitement, I don’t care about Armani, I want dinner! There is a large fireplace and this is gently burning even though it is close to summer. The walls are white washed and the ceiling is rounded  and made of stone. It’s like an ancient cellar and it’s perfect. I am just so pleased to be here, in this restaurant in this town eating and drinking and having this amazing experience

Beefstecca ala Fiorentina- T-bone!
Beefstecca ala Fiorentina- T-bone!

We choose and entrée and view the piece of  Bistecca alla Fiorentina that will be grilled for us. It’s a bit over 2 kg. Its from local cattle and it has been hung at the restaurant

The Manager
The Manager, restaurant behind….
y ravioli sitting in a fresh thin tomato sauce
My Ricotta Ravioli sitting in a fresh thin tomato sugo
Tomato and Mozzarella salad
Ravioli in tomato with ricotta salata ( salted and dried) and then the Steak and a bottle of wine I will never forget……………..the meat is so tender and cooked to a charcoal flavoured perfection….
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Kerna
Kurni oh Lord I love you!
Cantuccini and vin santo

Cantuccini and vin santo It was full moon when we left the restaurant. We walked to the car . The others got in and started the car while I took a photo of the bell tower bathed in moonlight. I could see the car running and everyone in side waiting so I hurried along tucking my camera away as I went. I raced up to the front of the car  and pulled the front passenger side door open. There, sitting at the steering wheel looking shocked was the Entrepreneur. I must have had one glass of wine too many because I was trying to get into the drivers side…..well I’m Australian so I was technically right!

saturnia bell tower
Saturnia bell tower

The next morning after my embarrassing mix up, the boot was repacked and arranged and we set off for Roma. The scenery started to change with the hills flattening out. Some sheep and cattle started to appear, grazing  here and there. We came over a rise and I could see the sea in the distance about an hour out of Roma. We were nearly there. Now to navigate the freeways and roads of Rome, it’s like snakes and ladders.

Rome
Ah Rome, the buildings…the sights…..the parking!
DSC09859

You know our trip has nothing to do with tourism, unless you count visiting one of the most interesting concepts in food stores today Eataly, I mentioned it here in a previous post. Eataly is astonishing in size and concept and there’s one opening in Australia soon.

Eataly
Eataly 3 floors of restaurants and food
Eataly 3 floors of restaurants and foo
Eataly
Eataly
Tomatoes
The produce
Meat counter
Meat counter

We have time to find our hotel in a coast side suburb near the airport called Fiumicino. a seaside suburb where people go to eat and relax in the summer. This is what happens at Fiumicino ‘s cute seaside restaurants and volleyball courts.

Beach side restaurant
Beach side restaurant
Fancy that an Italian restaurant
Fancy that an Italian restaurant
And this pretty little place
And this pretty little place
Volley ball anyone?
Volley ball anyone?

It’s a wild and windy afternoon and the boys go for a little rest but I am fascinated by Fiumicino. It’s an odd place, kind of like an old caravan park that is deserted. So I snap photos and wander around …getting ready for dinner. I think this might be a treat . We are heading out to  dinner in one of the hottest new restaurants in Rome called Romeo.   Romeo, Chef and Baker. Its a day to night concept part gourmet store part bakery and delicatessen. There are 4 experienced chefs and along with the traditional there are some interesting modern elements.

Romeo
Romeo

No prices no descriptions but this is what it looks like.

notice the legs on the counte
notice the legs on the counterBreads and PizzaBreads and PizzaThe counters as you walk in a full of grocery items, bread, pizzas cheese and meatsThe counters as you walk in a full of grocery items, bread, pizzas cheese and meatsDiningDiningBreadsBreadsJamonJamonPillows of ravioli filled with a stracchino cheese and Asparagus moussePillows of ravioli filled with a stracchino cheese and Asparagus mousse and Buffalo mozzarella and anchoviesBuffallo Mozzarella with anchoviesTartareTartare and below Fish with potato puree and raddichioPannacottaPannacotta
Roma
Roma

Italy. What’s amazing and funny and plain wonderful?

This restaurant sign in Milan
This restaurant sign in Milan
This display cabinet in a service station
This display cabinet in a service station
This wild west coast beach side scene
This wild west coast beachside scene
breakfast at
breakfast at Auto grill, a must
Entree sized risotto
This Entree sized risotto
Me in the moonlight in Saturnia after one too many wines taking a picture
Me ( my shadow) in the moonlight in Saturnia after one too many wines taking a picture
A house with no door
A house with no door
And an Angel to collect the mail
Michealangelo’s David has a son…..and he collects the mail

il due cippi  P.za V. Veneto, 26, 58050 Saturnia

Romeo  Via Silla, 26, Rome

                               Hope you enjoyed my trip through Italy

More posts here:

The road trip My Kitchen Stories and 3 Italians

The three year old balsamic connoisseur and life in Modena

Negronis, Italy’s best pasta maker and Africa in Milan

More food, George Clooney and my night with 6 Italian men

Chocolate biscuit people and In my Kitchen June

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Ampeleia, chef and baker, Eataly, Rome, Romeo, Saturnia, travel, travelling in Italy, Tuscany, unlitro

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Comments

  1. nancy@jamjnr

    August 6, 2013 at 12:06 pm

    I dream of winning the lottery and living in Italy for ever. We are going to Sicily in September and I’m counting down the days already. I love, love, love the simplicity of the mozzarella and anchovies plate.

    Reply
  2. MyKitchenStories

    August 5, 2013 at 6:37 pm

    Sadly if you have tried to leave a comment here in the last couple of days I have had a problem with comments. I am trying to resolve this . Please come back.

    Reply

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Tania Cusack Hi, I'm Tania and this is My Kitchen Stories. I share all kinds of recipes here. Most recipes are quick and easy, just perfect for families. BUT, you could also find vegan, cakes and desserts too. Come and have a look around Read More
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